Marrakech Pt. 2: Jnane Tamsna
Have you ever wondered what it would be like to visit, and possibly even stay, at a desert oasis? Maybe I read too many books growing up, or fell in love with that one scene in the Alchemist, but I’ve had moments where I wondered if they’re real and what they’re like.
My questions were answered at Jnane Tamsna “The Big Garden”, a quiet, lush, luxurious, boutique resort situated on 8.5 acres of land in the Palmeraie area 20minutes outside of the Medina city-center.
For the life of me, I don’t remember if I first learned about this gem from Zim or my soul sister Leslie, who shared a post on Facebook about the “only, black woman owned hotel” in Marrakech. Whatever the case, I give them many thanks for the gift of revelation and planting the seed. As I mentioned in my previous #WanderlustWednesday post (Marrakech Pt.1) I had the pleasure of visiting Marrakech in 2017 for a life-changing retreat.
During that time, I stayed at a riad in the Medina that I thoroughly enjoyed and would have easily revisited. But I knew I wanted to return to Marrakech with my husband, and the riad, like most riads, had an open air lobby with a tree growing up in the middle. Of course it was beautiful and unique. It was also pretty loud at sunset and sunrise when the birds would come to roost spilling all the tea about their day. I knew I didn’t want to go to the more extravagant hotels. Ok, I’m lying.
I would have loved to enjoy a sponsored stay at La Maison Arabe, La Mamounia or Fairmont Marrakech.
But, I also knew I wanted to experience something that suited my personality and values. I value my family, I value solitude, and I value reflection. Jnane Tamsna is a beautiful, family-friendly hotel that invites reflection and offers solitude. It’s warm, welcoming and authentic. It’s a beautiful marriage of the vision between the owners, husband and wife Meryanne Loum-Martin (attorney and interior designer) and Dr. Gary Martin (ethnobotanist).
From the moment we checked in, we were made to feel at home. The staff welcomed us with complimentary Moroccan mint tea and loved on my daughter, taking her on a little tour of the area, playing with her, and letting her guide them with her newly acquired walking skills. Babies are celebrated and welcomed in many Middle Eastern and North African nations that we’ve visited, and Lavender was treated like a little princess.
We enjoyed the Dakar Room, a larger room, which boasted plenty of space, a tub, fireplace and rooftop access to an outdoor lounge above the main building. Although we only stayed for 2 nights, the staff were friendly and accommodating, answering all of our questions, making sure we were taken care of and even taking time to give us a private tour of the grounds.
Jnane Tamsna boasts 24 rooms, 5 villas, 5 pools, a tennis court and a host of activities for guests. From camel, horseback rides and bike tours to Atlas Mountain excursions and hot air balloon rides, there’s a lot to experience despite being 20 minutes away from the main attractions of Marrakech. It’s a welcome reprieve to return to a quiet space after a full day of sightseeing. Not only did we “escape” the noise of the upbeat birds from the Medina, but we also managed to miss out on all the loud chatter and rooftop conversations that I endured the first time I visited Marrakech.
DECOR
This space feels like home. It feels like relaxation wrapped in a pashmina blanket. It’s upscale and yet cozy and familiar. Think of the feeling you get when you smell wood burning in the fireplace, or sip on a Earl Gray during a little rainstorm. Or maybe, think about a celebrity that makes you say, “Oh, I could so be his or her friend and see us going out for a beer, wine, coffee or all three” (Adele, Issa Rae, Michelle O, Trevor Noah, say the word). That’s Jnane Tamsna. You feel invited and know that Meryanne and Dr. Gary Martin put their heart and soul into what they do.
You ever eat a meal and want to cry? I always say one of two things is happening: 1) you’re so hungry and hormonal and emotional and that meal kept you from turning into The Incredible Hulk, so you cry tears of relief; or 2) you feel the love and soul of the person making it and can tell their heart delights in nourishing and comforting you with a good meal.
Jnane Tamsna is like food for the soul in a way. And even better, it confirms the beauty of standing out, charting your own course, and standing on your own. In an industry where flashy, golden bells and whistles can easily be employed to capture your attention (#gaudy), Meryanne chose the more grounded characteristics of bespoke design.
Like your sagely aunt who is old enough to dress however she wants without rebuke, but chooses to embody the spirits of Clair Huxtable and Auntie Dr. Maya Angelou. In addition to the feeling of walking through a “secret-garden” while navigating the grounds, there’s the understated elegance of the furnishings, library, dining area and rooms. It’s just right and what I’d want for my house. It’s poetic.
FOOD
Guests can enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner with breakfast included in the price of your stay. They grow much of the produce on the grounds, so you know it’s fresh! My first meal was a light salad a few hours after we checked in. I enjoyed it off to the side of the pool in a shaded area facing the main building.
Breakfast includes preserves, breads (including one that reminded me of injera but if it were made with black rye), cold cuts, granola, fruits, yogurts and cheeses.
We enjoyed Thanksgiving dinner at Jnane Tamsna and, because we had reservations at another restaurant in the Medina, Turkey Day was our first and only dinner at the hotel. But I’ll say I had one of the best Thanksgiving dinners, not because of how well the food was, and it was delicious and well seasoned, but it was the company! Story time: my girlfriend Eyndiyah mentioned that she and her family were going to Marrakech for Thanksgiving and I was so excited and hopeful.
I’ve never traveled and met up with friends (mentally checking to confirm this is true). I wasn’t sure if she’d be staying at Jnane Tamsna, but I knew that we both wanted to stay there. Her husband was surprising her, so she had no idea where she was staying. I was praying it was at that hotel, but wasn’t on Facebook and didn’t check my phone until we got back to our room after going to the Palais Aziza. That’s when I got super excited and if I had confetti, I would have thrown it in the air. It was a dream come true because we got to break bread and enjoy the holiday with familiar faces.
The meal included turkey and veggies from the garden dressed with delicious spice combinations that I had never tasted. The carrots and potatoes took on a new character and Lavender seemed to enjoy them.
RELAXATION
While Jnane Tamsna doesn’t offer spa treatments on site, they do have a partnership with Palais Aziza and Spa, which is a 10 minute drive. For our trip, we decided to keep it simple our first day, by going to the spa and eating Thanksgiving dinner at the hotel.
We scheduled our packages in advance, the hotel can help with that. Because we have a 1-year old, we had to work out the childcare logistics. No couple’s massage here, we took turns looking after Lavender while the other got their massage.
Which is the perfect segue into our phenomenal experience with Palais Aziz and Spa. I decided to let Chris go first while I waited outside by the pool area with Lavender. My plan was to nurse and comfort her so she could take a nap and then she’d be well rested and able to play with Chris when It was my turn for my treatment. Nope! Because she had perfected the art of walking earlier, Lavender wanted to keep walking. Her little body and newly activated skills caused her to stay awake and fight sleep. She also burned energy and built an appetite. So, when it was time for her to take a nap, she threw a fit!
I walked with her, hoping a change of scenery would calm her down or distract her from her baby woes. Nope, she wasn’t having it. She fussed while other people were getting their treatments and Chris said he even heard her wherever she was. When it was my turn to change and be escorted to the room for my treatment, facial, massage and reflexology, I had to sneak out.
And although she had calmed down, the minute she saw me Lavender wailed. So, the ever gracious and kind Naima helped me get settled in and brought my baby to me. Where, for the duration of my treatment, I had to nurse my child for her to sleep. Y’alllllll!!!! What do you do? You just roll with it. But I will say, at one point, both of us were asleep on the massage table, so I got to relax, despite having a baby attached to my bosom. Needless to say, I didn’t get that massage, but I desperately needed that foot massage and that facial brought me back from the dead, so I was satisfied.
TOUR
On our first day in-country, we enjoyed off-site spa treatment and candle-lit Thanksgiving dinner with friends. On our second day, we spent every waking hour exploring the city and popular sites. But, we decided to tone it down on the third and last day and use our final hours of our vacation to tour the grounds.
Our lovely guide from Cleveland (hey-girl-hey!), showed us around, letting us ooh and ahh at the various villas, pools and that famous pathway that’s usually adorned with a long row of tables for hosting large parties. We looked at the items in Meryanne and Gary’s ethnobotanist and interior decor shops. They are two different shops, both next to one another and feature beauty products, Argan oil, candles figs, facial masks as well as blankets, mirrors, scarves, and kitchenware. So, you can bring a little bit of Jnane Tamsna home with you.
OWNER(S)
We got to meet Ms. Meryanne on our final day. I was starstruck when she walked in and began talking with the guests seated at the table behind us. I tried to hide my excitement so as not to come off as a giddy teenager meeting their “celebrity crush” and it helped that I was feeding and holding my 1-year-old.
But, in addition to experiencing this hotel with a friend, I wanted nothing more than to meet the owner and visionary herself.
So, as the benevolent host, after talking with her other guests, she made her way over to our table and we introduced ourselves. We talked briefly over coffee and I told her how exciting and how much of an honor it was to meet her.
And she was so gracious, stating how shocked she was about all of the attention and press, but she was humble and dignified, regal and approachable. You knew you were sitting with a queen, but didn’t feel unwelcome.
I’m reminded of how important it is to live in your truth, live out the full meaning of your purpose and to not shy away from your greatness even in spaces where your presence, or identity, is unwanted, unwelcome or questioned.
When people do that, we get places like Jnane Tamsna, a black-female owned oasis in the desert of Marrakech with 5 pools, 5 villas, delicious garden-to-table meals and the secret to great memories.