South Africa - Part 1
If I could pack my bags and relocate my family at random, I would definitely move to somewhere in Africa. I’m not sure if it would be a temporary or lifetime move, but I’m convinced we’ll spend some measure of concrete time on the Continent. My first visit to The Motherland was in 2006 as a college sophomore. I joined a small group of students and professionals for a 10-day service learning experience. We spent 5-6 days in Lesotho and had the option of visiting one of three other countries in the region. All of the college students opted to go to Cape Town and explore as much of the area as we could. I don’t even remember if I could afford the trip and I couch surfed with two women who graciously let me stay in an adjoining room of their suite. I’m beyond grateful to them. We didn’t hang out, but did our own thing, but they never asked me for a dime or made me feel awkward for staying there. In fact, I know one of their names was Jessica. Jessica honey, if you’re reading this and remember your hospitality, please contact me so I can properly thank you for your generosity or at least donate to a charity of your choice to pay it forward. I also met one of my dear friends who I’ve kept in touch with after so many years, Emma.
Because of those two women, I got to enjoy what I can honestly say is one of my most FAVORITE places on earth.
10 years later, for my 31st birthday, I decided to return to The Mother City, but this time, I brought my beloved. And I know we’ll bring our families in the future when funds and schedules allow for it.
Until then, here are some highlights from our time in the beautiful South Africa. Part 1 features Cape Town and Johannesburg and Part 2 features our time at Shambala Game Reserve.
Part 1: Capetown and Johannesburg
WHERE TO STAY
We were fortunate enough to stay at a hotel with a few perks. Situated in the Milnertown area of Cape Town, this hotel boasted jaw-dropping views of Table and Lion Mountain in the distance and a nice sandy area along the lagoon. We enjoyed a delicious breakfast and quiet accommodations. The staff were friendly and accommodating and provided exceptional service.
When looking for a place to stay in Johannesburg, we opted for something a little unique and less traditional. I can’t remember how I stumbled upon this gem, but the Satyagraha House reminded me of a little hermitage. This place is the former home of Mahatma Ghandi when he lived in South Africa and if you didn’t know any better you’d think it were another house or even a small satellite setting for an academy on non-violent living. Quiet, minimalist and reflective, we enjoyed vegetarian meals and an escape from the busy hustle and bustle of a full day of tourism.
WHERE TO EAT
V&A Waterfront
The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront (V&A Waterfront) is a popular area for shopping, dining, lodging and enjoying surrounding areas of Cape Town. I remember visiting this spot during my first visit to South Africa. Chris and I even went inside the same outdoor gear shop I hit up to purchase my hiking gear 10 years prior. It’s a busy area bustling with outdoor entertainment, a children’s play space, and plenty to see. We hopped around the stalls at the (food market) where I tried grubs for the first time and fell in love with Biltong (not to be confused with beef jerky). We also enjoyed visiting a few souvenir stalls to rack up on gifts for family and friends.
Signal Restaurant of the Cape Grace Hotel is an upscale affair with a dress code for guests and wait staff alike. We arrived close to opening and the venue was relatively quiet, making for a romantic setting. This is where I not only enjoyed my birthday meal but my first bite of ostrich meat. It tasted divine and on first glance I thought it was a cut of steak. The Cape Grace Hotel, located on the harbor is beautiful and decorated with old world themes. -
Addis in the Cape Ethiopian restaurant. Here’s a little secret about me. I.LOVE.Ethiopian food! My best friend from high school introduced me to it our sophomore year. One day I went by her house after school, probably to borrow a book for a class. Whatever the reason, when I stepped into her house I smelled something heavenly. Rich tomato, fenugreek and garlic and ginger wafted in the air. Her mother was cooking Doro Wot, a traditional dish. Then she did something that let me know she was a real friend, she offered me a bite. Y’all…once you go Ethiopian, ain’t nothing taking it’s place. That was almost 20 years ago (jeesh!) and to this day, wherever we visit or live, I scope out an Ethiopian restaurant. Well, given that Cape Town is on the continent of Africa, and I was craving Ethiopian cuisine, the minute we found out about Addis in the Cape, we made a reservation and a beeline to the venue. Our seats were upstairs and we sat on low chairs, almost like stools. It was pretty crowded, and I’m going to be honest, it looked like a little Peace Corps reunion with a predominantly tourist crowd. The restaurant was also somewhat dim, illuminated by candles and low lights. The music in the background filled up our ears, but we were seated so close to each other that whatever small talk we made wasn’t in too much competition with the speakers.
Mzansi Restaurant is an experience. Yes, it’s characterized by tour groups, most of them from outside of Africa, but it’s also a beautiful set up with live music and story telling. I found myself dancing and singing throughout my meal. Located in Langa, Cape Town’s oldest township, the restaurant is operated and managed by a Black South African couple from that area. We actually found this place via a Trip Advisor search for top authentic South African cuisine and restaurants. It’s a popular spot for tourists and space fills up, so we’re glad we could squeeze in
WHAT TO DO
Hiking Table Mountain (after I vowed to never do it again). In 2006, I set out with four other adventurers to hike Table Mountain. I lacked hiking experience and didn’t know what to expect. Thankfully, two of the members in my crew were avid trekkers and the other two were spry and upbeat, so it made for an awesome experience Except for the part where I almost fell down off the edge of a thicket when we all attempted to take a selfie. In those days, we didn’t have smart phones or selfie sticks, so we were winging it. The photo turned out fine and I survived, but I vowed to never hike Table Mountain ever again. Well, fast forward and the love of my life loves hikes. So, he convinced me to conquer my fear and face the mountain. Baby, let me tell you. Most people would look at table mountain and say, “Oh, it can’t be that hard, it’s a table top not a pencil.” Yep, it might look easy but it was a hike. We were winded, got cold, wore bad shoes, I thought I was going to fall off a rock at a certain point. I was just happy that we made it to the top in the day light before the clouds blocked all visibility and that we were able to take the sky bucket down instead of having to hike all the way down that bad boy. That said, I’m glad I overcame my angst and hiked it. And, I’ll gladly summit again, within the confines of the sky bucket.
Red Bus (hop on) Tours are great and simple options for getting around. We take them most places we visit. Yes, city transportation is cheaper and probably more convenient, but the tour buses hit key stops and we’re content with the set up. Plus, they feature audio guides.
We decided to add a cooking lesson in the Bo-Kaap neighborhood with Gamida of Lekkah Kombuis (she’s on Facebook). She also includes neighborhood tours and a history lesson along with the meal, included in the price.
We did a full day tour along the peninsula, with stops at The Cape of Good Hope and Stellenbosch for a wine tasting and tour. We booked with African Eagle Tours, which included transportation and a guide. Our tour and tasting took place at Marianne wine estate in South Africa’s wine country.
Robbin Island tour This is an absolute MUST and we almost missed out on it. We piddle-footed about what day and when we wanted to go and within minutes of deliberating, all tickets were “sold out” for the duration of our stay in the area. I suggested that we go in person to see if anything was available. No shows and the like meant that anything was possible. We went, and the lobby was super crowded, so my stomach sank, but I knew it would work out. And it did. After lingering around the ticket area for ever, one of the counter agents called us over to see if we had been helped and then he worked his magic and a miracle was performed on the spot. We got two tickets and were cleared to board one of THE most wobbly, unstable and flat out scary boat rides I’d ever taken. It was crowded and we were seated above deck in the open air. I’d never gotten sea sick until that ride. I graciously accepted a ginger flavored sea-sick candy and prayed that the winds and waves would obey Jesus in time for us to arrive safely. We did and were among the last boats to arrive. We later found out that our tour guide, a former prisoner at Robbin Island, had taken that very boat several decades prior to be imprisoned and tortured for his protests against Apartheid South Africa. My heart sank as he recounted the stories and I marveled that he was still able to return to this very reminder of hell on earth to lead tours.
World of Beer Tour Located in Johannesburg, this company offers a tour of the history of beer around the world, featuring a variety of tasting options.
Hector Pieterson Museum in Soweto was built at the site where Hector Pieterson, a young school boy, was shot and killed by police during the Soweto Uprising. The student-led demonstration was in protest of the newly enforced policy to instruct students in Afrikaans.
Soweto Township Tour We took this tour in conjunction with the red hop on tour bus. We rode in a smaller vehicle and stopped at the world cup stadium, Soweto Township and even drove past the area land field, which smelled horrible and was located across the highway from the township. So, not only did people live in government sanctioned squalor, they had to endure the putrid stench of polluted air.
Apartheid Museum This museum is also a must. It chronicles the history of Apartheid with audio-visuals and relics of anti-Apartheid champions and the upward journey of post-Apartheid South Africa.
