Our Caucasian Vacation: Part 1 - Armenia
Khor Virap Monastery: Photo by Acasia Olson
Back in 2016, when we lived in Bahrain and were brainstorming our next travel move...
Chris and I went to the post office on base to check our mail when he noticed a guy wearing a shirt from Georgia. But not Ray Charles, Coca Cola and peaches Georgia. Not Delta Airlines, Outkast and southern hospitality Georgia. This was the country in the Caucasus region. Chris got excited and immediately started asking them questions about their trip.
Every answer made him even more interested in visiting. Meanwhile, I rolled my eyes, flipped through the latest edition of Reader’s Digest and didn’t think much of it. But when Chris is set on something, he doesn’t back down.
Weeks later, we finalized our travel plans and the next thing you know, we were embarking on a 10-day trip through Armenia and Georgia. I initially penned this review from the back seat of a hired taxi that drove us from the Black Sea Resort town of Batumi back to the capital city of Tblisi Georgia where enjoyed a summer’s end vacation in the former Soviet Nations and, at the time, were only the 2nd other family we knew to have gotten off the beaten path to visit the land known for good wine and delicious food.
So, why, of all places, did we choose to go to Armenia and Georgia? Why not?
In fact, I felt like Joanne the Scammer as this would be an official, “Caucasian Vacation”
Here’s a little secret, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Armenia, these are countries along the Caucasus Mountain region but they don’t refer to themselves as “Caucasian.” The “term” Caucasian was adopted into our American English lexicon because a German anatomist and creepo, Johann Blumenbach, fascinated with the skull shape of deceased Georgians saw fit to, in the name of pseudo science and the foolishness of that day, designate the people in that region as premier with the ideal head shape and thus, a superior mind.
To him, and all who followed his hollow theory, the people of this region were the original humans, and the birth of the term and idea of Caucasian as the “perfect race,” came to be. It was adopted into racial classification in the U.S. along with other systems of racial caste and hierarchy. Hence, Caucasian as a term used to describe what Americans use in lieu of white people. Some believe it ties into a White Supremacist, Eurocentric racial ideal. (Know your history and identity)
Armenia
We started our 10-day trip in Armenia. Our entrance through customs was pretty smooth despite the super long line. I say “smooth” because Chris is a language master and garnered a smile from the surly passport control guy when he greeted him in perfect Armenian.
We spent three full and unforgettable days in Armenia. At the time of our trip, the Armenian tourism infrastructure was pretty new, so we worked with a tour company, Juva Tours, where the lovely Serene and Ash took us to a lot of historic sites in and around the capital city of Yerevan.
They even drove us from Yerevan to Tblisi Georgia!
Armenia is a quiet, off the beaten path, but delightful country in Eastern Europe. It’s one of those places where two, tall, black, athletically built people will be mistaken for mythical figures and invited to take photos with awe inspired passers by.
Either that or get stopped by a woman who called out, “Rhodesia, Rhodesia,” and holds out her hands asking for coins. Chris suspected that she thought we were from somewhere in SubSaharan Africa and when he whipped out a quarter, she seemed disgruntled.
It was dark, we were in a crowded town square waiting for the entertaining evening clock display and she was a little too close. So I’ll choose a photo op over being followed by someone who wants to collect coins from Rhodesia.
Day 1 -3: Arrive in Yerevan, the capital of Armenia
What to do
Armenian Genocide Museum
Ok, raise your hand if you ever learned about the Armenian Genocide. Keep your hands up if you learned about it in grade school or PBS or some other avenue. Did you raise your hand? Did you know a thing about this event? You didn’t? You’re not alone because I don’t remember learning a thing about this tragedy either.
That doesn’t mean my text books didn’t reference it in the margins or hint at it in a chapter introduction or footnotes. That’s all possible. But I don’t remember anything about this event and so you have to know my jaw was in my lap when I first heard of it.
We walked through room after room, reading placards, orienting ourselves with the facts and figures. While Chris was aware of what happened, I had to process it. The monument and memorial museum sits on a hill over looking the capital. It’s a quiet space, inviting reflection.
Ararat Distillery Tour
Y’all, this is also a must. Just understand that it’s definitely not a child friendly spot and if you should so choose to visit in the summer you will indeed experience a contact buzz.
“What is a contact buzz?” you ask.
It’s when all the mesmerizing alcoholic beverages are brewing in oak barrels, actively fermenting and belching alcoholic gasses through the cracks in the wood.
Call it the vapors, because you get a whiff and then you drift into euphoria that convinces you to buy a few bottles of the product.
The tour was an hour max, including the tasting at the end. We learned the history of the Ararat Brandy, which, in blind taste tests, is often mistaken for a Cognac but due to naming conventions, can’t be called Cognac because it doesn’t come from that region of France.
I’m not a “spirits” person. I stick to wine and beer, but “When in Armenia” right? Plus, Chris had to pull out all the stops to convince me why we should set foot in Armenia and this helped.
Armenian History Museum.
The older I get and the more I travel, the more intrigued I become with history. I used to abhor history in my younger years. Primarily because I never saw anything positive or affirming about my ancestors and heritage in my text books, that and, outside of my parents, I never had a teacher of color teach me history until college, so I didn’t trust anything.
Nowadays, I enjoy history and visiting history museums in the countries we visit. It offers me a chance to see something I may never see in the land of my birth and it’s told from the residence as opposed to a heavily edited text book.
The Armenian History Museum was pretty decent. Your standard history museum with artifacts, rotating exhibits and other information to shape the story of the people and nation represented in stationary boxes.
Federal Square
This area features the central government buildings, history museum, a few swanky restaurants and a clock that puts on a special performance in the evening, attracting a crowd of spectators.
Khor Virap Monastery and Mt. Ararat
We visited this area on our first day in country. Located in a remote but easily accessible area, Khor Virap is a very old monastery established at the base of Mt. Ararat, right at the border of Turkey, the area that Armenians refer to as Western Armenian as this territory was taken during the genocide.
You can actually see the road and the division. You can also see Mt. Ararat, of Old Testament fame. This is the mountain where some claim to have discovered remnants of Noah’s famous ark. It’s a beautiful sight to behold, the mountain that is, because we didn’t see one piece of ark and couldn’t from that far away.
GUM Market
This was an intriguing market featuring stall after stall of traditional spice, sweets, meats, and fruits, including the locally created fruit preserves of tomato, strawberry, among others. I had to feature this one woman who was a hustler and great at getting our attention and money. She was the first stall upon entering, and, given the fact that all stalls sold the same thing, she made it easy for us to just buy everything we wanted in one spot. She let us try sample after sample after sample. And I took notes on her grind.
Etchmiadzin Cathedral and Compound
The mother church of the Armenian Apostolic faith, Etchmiadzn Cathedral is not only the oldest Armenian church but scholars claim that it is the oldest cathedral in the world. A visit to this church also features the compound which houses a seminary and several relics in a museum.
A few things to note: 1. As this is a holy ground, conservative attire is expected; 2. Photos are not allowed in most of the spaces (at least not when we visited); 3. Upon exiting a holy space, you are supposed to walk out backwards because Armenians believe that when you turn and face the door to exit, you are essentially turning your back on God.
Geghard Monastery
This UNESCO World Heritage Site is located near Goght up in the cliffs. The name, when translated, means Monastery of the Spear and is based on the belief that it once housed the spear that pierced Jesus’s side while crucified on the cross.
We visited the monastery on our last day in country, while en route to Georgia. I will say that in addition to being a quiet and remote location, there is a sweet spirit on this space. Maybe it’s the bee farm? But in all seriousness, we felt compelled to pause, reflect and pray while entering a number of spaces within the ancient buildings.
Stop at Lake Sevan and see Savanak Monastery
The largest body of water in Armenia and the Caucasus Region. We stopped here for lunch and to visit the monastery on site, which had a beautiful view of the lake.
Where to stay
Ani Plaza
Where and what to eat
Yerevan Tavern restaurant
The Market Place food court
Trip Highlights
The Armenian customs people being impressed with Chris’ ability to speak the proper Armenian greeting
Climbing the Yerevan Cascade
All the churches and the distinct Armenian crosses (Khachkar)
All the statues that made me think of an Ayn Rand novel
The delicious food and tabouleh
Cold treatment from the (non-Armenian) waiter at the Yerevan Tavern the second night we ate there
The positive vibes and hospitality