Before we moved to Spain, my friend Jacqueline told me how much she loved Sevilla. She said it felt most like what she imagined "Spain to be" and she fell in love.

Our first visit to Sevilla in 2017 was a disaster that ended in us sprinting across the streets to catch our charter bus. The clock was literally about to strike midnight and our chariot was going to turn into a pumpkin, aka disappear back to Rota without us! We were on a group tour for holy week "Semana Santa", which is huge here in Spain. The streets are packed with spectators as wooden floats, usually carried by a team of burley men, make their way along the route. In addition to the floats, there are brotherhoods representing churches and the distinguishing feature is their peniente, or long, pointed, hood that would make most Americans, and especially Black folks, double take and run.

We were in Sevilla on Good Friday and got lost trying to return to our bus. We scheduled ample time, put our phone on battery saver and set back to the bus pick up point with an hour to spare. That's when things got mad. The GPS kept trying to put us on a route that had a procession so everywhere we turned, streets were blocked. The system was probably overwhelmed but also couldn't have known that there was a long line of humans and floats blocking the way. We were so late, out of breath and pissed. Fortunately, we made it out before a group of jerks pulled off a hoax, resulting in a stampede and several injuries to all who were running from the madness.

I'm glad we gave this beautiful city a second chance. We've been back 9-10 times, the majority of those times with our guests. We've managed to squeeze in visits to the Real Alcázar, the Museo del Baile flamenco, Plaza de España, park, Museums, Roman Ruins, Belén Market, and the Jewish quarter. I fell in love after giving Sevilla a second chance and I totally understand where my friend was coming from after seeing the city sans crowds and confusion. I completely agree with her. You might notice crimson red flags sporting bold, gold letters and characters that appear to spell out a key/password. NO8DO or "[Ella] No me ha dejado" She has not abandoned me is true. I am captivated by the Capital of Andalucía. So much so, that if we could move back to Spain, I would want to live in Sevilla, with Valencia a close second.

So much so, that I was able to convince Chris to squeeze in a little Christmas staycation here at the end of our time in Spain.

We stayed the weekend before Christmas and fortunately the weather wasn't too bad. The forecast called for rain showers and wind, but we arrived closer to sunset after the heavy rains ceased.

My goal for this final trip was to do and see things we had never done and we did just that. So, here are a few things we enjoyed on our Christmas Staycation in Seville with an added bonus. Because, the last time I wrote about Seville was a generic review based on our first experience (here), I’m throwing in a few more hot spots from all previous visits to the capital of Andalucía! (Merry Christmas!):

Sevilla (Seville if you’re American) is the Capital of Andalucía, the southern, and most populous, autonomous community of Spain. The name Andalucía, an offshoot of the Arabic word Al-Andalus, speaks to the history and people that once passed through this land and influenced much of what we see, hear and know of the region. Once inhabited by the Phoenicians some 2000+ years ago, Sevilla, like the rest of Andalucía, contains a wellspring of rich history and flavor in its roots. I’m not a historian, and I don’t play one on TV. Instead, I’m going to highlight some of the things we observed over the course of 3 years and roughly 10 visits and let the photos do most of the talking!

LANDMARKS

PLAZA DE ESPAÑA

There really are no words to express what this place does for me. Every time we visit the famous Plaza de España, I’m blown away. For starters, the details and handwork of the tiles, carvings, bridges and stairwells can hold your attention all day. There are benches (alcoves) for each province of Spain, including maps and a key historical period of that location. There are famous philosophers, poets, and leaders, and innovators looking out from above. The plaza building is a half circle, with a grand fountain in the middle and moat for little boat rides within that circle. It’s like a grand hug to greet you after walking through and taking in the beauty of Parque de María Luisa. The building is mainly used for government affairs and has been featured in a few movies, including some from the Star Wars franchise.

REAL ALCÁZAR

Any Game of Thrones fans out there? You’ll probably recognize this place from a few scenes in the earlier seasons of this epic show. I remember the first time I walked through the grand entrance of this beautiful palace (well before I saw it on TV). To be honest, we had gotten lost trying to find it, going in circles and frustrated by our GPS. It’s right across the plaza courtyard from the Cathedral. If you’ve ever been to La Alhambra in Granada, you’ll notice the Mudéjar architectural influence on both structures. I’m in love with the details, the fountains, the carvings, and the gardens of the Alcázar. I’m struck by how pristine and yet, livable it is. They say the Spanish Royal Family vacations there every so often. And while we’ve never been around to see them, I wouldn’t be surprised if they one day open this space up for overnight stays. There’s a touch of warmth to this grand space, and truth be told, the folks living in the nearby apartments probably feel like they’re as close to living like royalty as it gets. I’ll let you know if and when they start taking overnight guests.

THE CATHEDRAL

Our first visit to Sevilla put us face to face with the third largest church in the world and largest Gothic church in the world. We walked alongside it during the Semana Santa activities, stealing what little glimpses we could get through those grand open doors.

Sooooo...every.single.time we’ve gone to Seville, I attempt to visit the Cathedral. And every single time, we’re either too late, too early, or it’s closed to visitors. The closest I’ve gotten was during this last visit, when we were 30 minutes early. But we had other plans and wanted to visit a few more places before Lavender hit a wall and needed her nap. So, we skipped visiting the world famous Cathedral of St. Mary of the See (Sevilla Cathedral), and instead, admire all its entrances and details and grandeur from outside. The Giralda is another iconic landmark flanked alongside it. It’s a bellower and former minaret of the Mosque that stood near it during Muslim rule in the region. It was built to resemble the minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque Minaret in Marrakech, and we definitely saw a strong resemblance.

LAS SETAS

In 2018, Lonely Planet named Sevilla the Number 1 destination in the world. In fact, the cover of that year’s Lonely Planet Best in Travel featured the Seville skyline from atop Las Setas or Metropol Parasol, the world’s largest wooden structure. It looks like a neat display of waffle fries, but is referred to as “setas” or mushrooms in Spanish. I finally got to see them on this last trip to Sevilla and you definitely can’t miss them. There are restaurants, shops and other things to enjoy in the area. You can go up into the structure’s skywalk and get a view of the city beyond and below. Given time constraints, our stroller and Lavender’s impending nap meltdown, we opted to take photos and keep it moving. But the next time I come to Sevilla, I’d like to go up and inside, time permitting.

PALACIO DE LAS DUEÑAS

This little gem popped up on my radar after doing a little research on things to do in Sevilla (that I hadn’t done). This means, I didn’t know about this place until a week ago and when I saw where it was in relation to other unexplored landmarks on my list, I convinced Chris to go. Let’s be honest, it’s a palace a little out the way from our hotel by foot and there’s not much to do but walk around. BUT it’s beautiful, full of that classic Sevillian and Andalucían architecture and decor. It’s also known as the Palace of the Dukes of Alba, a well known Spanish aristocratic family. The palace boasted horse stalls, gardens, an open courtyard and fountains, and the show stopping, mouth watering mudéjar architecture that I love.

LA CASA DE LAS CIENCIAS

I remember visiting this museum while pregnant. We had to park a long distance away from the city center because we visited SEvilla the opening weeking of the festive Feria de Primavera (Annual Spring Fair). The weather was perfect, but not the parking. Consequently, I put in a lot of steps. La Casa de las Ciencias (Museum of Science) was nice, with a number of interactive exhibits and several levels. I remember resting at the top level and listening to a video on nutrition. It’s not a bad place for children and those who appreciate science. It’s also located across the street from Parque de María Luisa.

ROMAN RUINS

In addition to walking all over the perimeter of the city center, we also stumbled upon several Roman Ruins in the area. Canos de carmona

ACTIVITIES

Museo de Baile Flamenco

Flamenco is synonymous with Spain, and specifically Andalucía. The signature dance comprised of song, dance and instrumentation meld into a passionate experience guided by a powerful force. I’ve been to several shows in various cities in this region. Someone once told me about a couple that studied flamenco and traveled the country in search of “the best” flamenco show. Some may say “the best” is suggestive just like different people will argue where the original flamenco families or oldest flamenco tavern can be found. I won’t get into the specifics. Instead, I’ll just suggest taking a trip to Museo del Baile Flamenco, where you’ll get to see firsthand why this is a truly spectacular experience. This is a place where videos and photo are prohibited, inviting the audience to pay full attention to the performance. It also features a museum on the history of Flamenco, which is a few euro extra but not expensive and a nice little feature for all interested in learning more about flamenco.

Carousel

I didn’t see the carousel before this recent weekend staycation. I’m wondering if it’s a seasonal or Christmas activity. Either way, Lavender had her first carousel experience in Sevilla and it was so precious. Chris rode with her and she was so happy. I was happy. We were all happy. I like carousels and Ferris Wheels and I’m hoping to take Lavender on more. But how cool that her first ride was in Sevilla.

Horse-drawn carriages

We haven’t done horse and carriage tours. They seem nice. I’ve been tempted, but conflicted. So, I just admire the beautiful horses and carriages and avoid stepping on horse dung or getting run over by an oncoming horse and buggy along the street.

Bullfighting

I never went to a bullfight. When we first moved to Spain, I had “bull fight” on my bucket list and looked for information on where to go, when to go, how it works. Then a few people told me their experience, which shifted my perspectives a little and put me on the fence. Then Ferdinand came out. My mom read that book to me as a child and I loved Ferdinand. I eventually watched it on a plane ride to the U.S. (in Spanish thank you). And I cried. After that, I knew I couldn’t watch a bullfight. I would probably cry for the bull and hope the torero got hurt. BUT it’s a big deal here in Spain of course. Part of the history and tradition and you might find bullheads in restaurants or at museums. And you’ll definitely notice the famous bullring in Sevilla, which is open for tours to anyone who wants to learn more about this famous activity.

CELEBRATIONS & FESTIVALS

Semana Santa

I will definitely carve out time to write up a larger, more detailed post about this grand experience. Suffice it to say, Semana Santa in Sevilla is unlike anything I’ve ever seen. Take out the part where we got lost and almost left behind in Seville and I would have been on board for staying several days to witness the different floats and processions. There are numerous churches and brotherhoods, all tasked with carrying a float, each with different scenes depicting Jesus’s final week on earth (Holy Week) before his Crucifixion. Spain takes its Catholic holidays and traditions seriously and this one is definitely the most important, in my opinion.

Belén

Belén is the Spanish translation of Bethlehem, the city where Christ was born. Many cities in the region take part in the tradition of transforming their towns or old towns into a scene from the night when Christ was born. We’ve been to Vejer de la Frontera during the Live Nativity. We haven’t seen a live nativity in Sevilla, but they do have the Belén Festival, which includes rows of booths featuring nativity figurines of varying sizes. Some will recreate scenes at home or in schools and most often in the cathedrals. Another neat feature of Belén and Christmas in general, are the decorations, including the metal Christmas tree, lights strung above the streets, and the roasted chestnuts sold out on the streets.

Feria

I once read that Sevillanos are “ known to invite you to their house without giving you an address.” I don’t know any Sevillanos to say if this is true or not, but if Feria de Primavera is any indication of this, then perhaps so. What do I mean? Well, during Feria, (Think county fair but fancier), there are rows and rows of booths and tents and permanent buildings as well. Many cities have what are known as Feria grounds, where the annual fair is held. In my town of Rota and others, you can enter the tents and buildings (called casetas) as you like. Though I do remember my friend had to let me in to hers once because it was so crowded and they had security out front (fancy!). But Sevilla is known for being exclusive when it comes to their Feria. If you don’t know them and they don’t know you, you can’t just roll up into a caseta. You have to be invited by someone and you can only go to the caseta to which you are invited. Now, that said, you can go to Feria, take in the sights, fall in love with the dresses, which are incredible, get into the vibe. But, if you don’t have an invitation, you won’t be partaking in festive libations. And maybe that’s why you can say you’re invited to Sevilla, but you’re not invited “inside”.

HOTEL(S)

Alfonso XIII

This hotel deserves its own write up, and I’ll share a review in due time. But I will say that it’s one of the most beautiful and luxurious hotels I’ve ever set foot in. Built in 1929 for the World’s Fair, which took place in Seville that year, this palatial hotel maintains original artwork, architecture and features, including the tile work, wooden beams and columns. At one point, it went by the name Andalucian Palace, and that’s exactly what it is. I’ve been inside three times. Twice to stare, once to stay. And when I looked back at an Instagram post from December 23rd 2018, where I said, “Maybe I can win a staycation here,” I’m beaming because I did win a staycation if you count travel rewards points. I’ve been intrigued by this hotel since I first saw it several years back and I’m grateful for the experience and service. I will save details for a future hotel feature, but these photos can offer a glimpse into the world of Hotel Alfonso XIII.

FOOD

El Rinconcillo

is Sevilla’s oldest tapas bar, serving up tapas and drinks since 1670. This bar ITSELF is older than the U.S. We didn’t spend much time here because we already had dinner reservations at our hotel, but we did enjoy a holiday beer and the sights to and from the small but beloved establishment.

Sacristía

is a small tapas bar with delicious and affordable tapas. They serve typical Sevillano fare, including éspinacas con garbanzos, pringa, and orange wine. We barely fit in there, and this was when it was just the two of us. But we had a pleasant meal at a restaurant that was open a little earlier than most for Spanish business.

Chestnuts…

…roasting in an open fire is a thing. I first saw this in Madrid two years ago when we were walking around the city center and taking in the sights. Since then, the chestnut man has made his way down to Rota, but before we gave him a try, we enjoyed a few of these last year when we took my in-laws to Sevilla around Christmas time. They’re usually pretty good, meaty with a dash of coarse salt and just the right amount of roasted, nutty flavor.

Bar Pelayo

is a favorite. My first visit was in 2018 when we took my family to Sevilla, walked up an appetite and scouted out a restaurant. It just so happens that Bar Pelayo is along an alley right off the central cathedral square. It’s flanked by souvenir shops and when you step out and look to your left, La Giralda greets you with it’s impressive, picture perfect presence. We also lucked out because most Spanish restaurants weren’t open that early for dinner or a late lunch. But this one was open with plenty of seating. There are a lot of bull heads, so be warned that if that sort of thing grosses you out, or if you’re just not comfortable with it in general, then don’t go. If, however, you’re okay with that, and craving some good oxtails, Bar Pelayo is your spot. We’ve ordered a hearty helping of oxtails and french fries for no more than 7 euros for the full plate (3 for the tapas portion size). The first time we ate there, I was pregnant and my mom and I destroyed 1.5 plates of oxtails. They have other good food, but I highly recommend the oxtails.

While this post contains more than an overnight staycation’s worth of events, these are highlights from my beloved Sevilla. A week here wouldn’t be enough. For example, we still have never been on the other side of the Guadalquivir River to explore the famous Triana neighborhood or taken a little river cruise. While my in-laws enjoyed a Real Betis soccer game, we’ve never even been to a soccer game in Europe (shame). And there are numerous more monuments, parks, museums and sites to explore in this beautiful city. Which means, God willing, I’ll be back in Sevilla before my time on earth expires.